The base cabinet construction is a breeze with a little shimming or slight cutting to provide ideal sub-bases. You won’t have to think about whether each cabinet is level because the bases will do that for you. Once the lower cabinet sub-bases are in place, I suggest installing the upper cabinets next because it is simply simpler. It’s more difficult to operate on the smaller upper cabinets after the larger base cabinets have been constructed. Simply measure up from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the counter thickness, and the gap you want between the lower and upper cabinets (typically eighteen inches) and mark it with a pencil. The bottom of your upper cabinets is there. Since your sub-base is level, simply move the upper cabinet mark along the run to create a mark for the bottom of each upper cabinet. Then, using your height, locate all of the wall studs and create a vertical mark that will protrude both above and below the cabinets.If you would like to learn more about this, visit Northern Prairie Cabinets.
You won’t have to search for a stud while standing on a ladder and balancing a cabinet this way.
It’s a few minutes well spent work. Next, remove all cabinet doors and label each one with the cabinet to which it belongs. Take a piece of one-by-two-inch furring and nail it to the wall flush with the bottom of the upper cabinet mark if you’re working alone. While plumbing and fastening the cabinet to the wall, you’ll be able to rest it on the furring. Start with the first cabinet and nail it to the studs with three-inch drywall screws. Depending on the final appearance you like, you can countersink them, drill them, or use screw washers.
Place two C clamps in the first cabinet, then raise the second cabinet into place and firmly lock the first cabinet’s front face stile to the second with the C clamps.